SLP Line Lock Installation
There comes a time in the life of people who drag race, when they get fed up with standing on the brakes whilst trying to heat up the tires. Enter the fix for that, the SLP Line Lock. This is a fully bolt in pre-bent kit for the F-Body cars.
The Kit (sorry about the blur)
To start off, you need to remove the Master Cylinder to ABS Solenoid Block line for the front brakes, as noted above using a 12mm wrench. Make sure you shove some rags under where the lines bolt in, especially under the master cylinder as you're GOING to get some leakage.
Now, install the two supplied lines that came with the SLP kit. The longer of the two goes into the master cylinder with the 90* bend at the master cylinder end. When installing this line, DO NOT do like SLP's instructions show and route it above the fuel lines. If you do, you'll have to remove the line lock line to pull the fuel lines when doing motor work. The line with the 180* bend goes into the ABS solenoid block with the bend end next to the fuse box, again routed under the fuel lines. Leave the lines somewhat loose to allow for movement on the next step.
Now, install the brass fittings into either end of the line lock, then install the line lock in between the two lines and tighten down all line connections. Now it's time to move on to the electrical part.
First, let's find a place to install the actuation switch. SLP says to install it in the drivers side kick panel. I say bullocks to that. Let's find somewhere to hide it so the switch is out of the way, incognito-like.
Yeah, I think that will do. I obviously used the ash tray, just drill a 1/2" hole into the bottom of the ash tray, and then install the switch. Leave the wires connected for now.
Now, remove the shorter of the two lines, but REMEMBER where it was as I'm not sure, but those are oriented a specific way on the switch. Better safe than sorry. We're going to ground the switch to the bolt shown above on the emergency brake handle mount.
Now that we know where the switch is going, it's time to run the wiring. The wire that runs to the solenoid is plenty long enough to make it from the center console out the passenger side of the firewall through the grommet (Hey, we all have stereo's installed, right?), up the passenger side of the car, and across the front. Don't do like I did and break the passenger side foot panel, or else you'll have to fix it like above. Hey, it works.
Feed the wire through the grommet, and run it along the passenger side fender with other wires there. Once it's pulled through, remove the radiator shroud and route the wire along across the front of the car in front of the radiator (laying on the shield) and to the solenoid for the line lock. Now that the actuation wire is run, we can move to the power wire.
The power wire, I connected to the power distribution block just behind the battery, and routed along with the feed wire across the front of the car to the solenoid. It does NOT matter which terminal on the solenoid where the wires go. Zip tie the lines together, and tie up any extra length. be sure to leave yourself some room if you have a CAI installed. Reinstall the radiator shroud, and that's about it.
You can test the solenoid without powering up the car. Just turn a front wheel to make sure it's free, then press the brake pedal (may have to pump to build pressure) and flip the switch. You should hear the solenoid click. Make sure the tire doesn't turn (or is difficult to, as there's air in the lines). If it doesn't, go back into the car, and flip the switch. You should hear the solenoid click again, and the wheel should turn freely. NOW BLEED THE BRAKES AT ALL CORNERS as air has been introduced into the system.
Now go out and have some fun lighting them up!!!!